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'40 Ford electric door locks

 
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Learpilot
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PostPosted: Sun, Feb 12 2012, 7:06 pm    Post subject: '40 Ford electric door locks Reply with quote

Has anybody put electric door locks on a '40 Ford with stock door latches ?
Thanks in advance !!!

Rick
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crdnblu
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PostPosted: Sun, Feb 12 2012, 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check out this link:

http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/online013A.htm

If I recall, '38 latches are similar to 40's.......
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Learpilot
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PostPosted: Mon, Feb 13 2012, 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

crdnblu wrote:
Check out this link:

http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/online013A.htm

If I recall, '38 latches are similar to 40's.......

THANK YOU !!! That is exactly what I am looking for, and I have all the parts !

THANKS AGAIN, Rick
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Okiedokie
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PostPosted: Mon, Feb 13 2012, 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wonder if the original locks will still work? Looks like they would.
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Learpilot
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PostPosted: Fri, Feb 17 2012, 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okiedokie wrote:
Wonder if the original locks will still work? Looks like they would.

It looks like that the original door locks will not work because they were cut in the first picture. I have not modified my locks yet ,but when I do I will let you know.
Rick
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Okiedokie
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PostPosted: Sat, Feb 18 2012, 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yhanks Rick.
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57larry
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PostPosted: Mon, Feb 27 2012, 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

has anybody replaced their springs in a 40 Ford door latch ? should I start a new thread? thanks
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PostPosted: Mon, Feb 27 2012, 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't.
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enjenjo
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PostPosted: Mon, Feb 27 2012, 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes I have. Don't remember who, but the springs are available. You have to pry up the tabs to get the housing apart, the tabs often break off when doing this, I just hold it togeter with some tack welds. If the guts are worn, and more times than not they are, it may be more effective to buy new latches.
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57larry
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PostPosted: Tue, Feb 28 2012, 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drake has the springs, which I have. Not sure if I have the nerve to tackle it
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PostPosted: Sun, Mar 04 2012, 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick, any progress?
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enjenjo
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PostPosted: Mon, Mar 05 2012, 1:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

57larry wrote:
Drake has the springs, which I have. Not sure if I have the nerve to tackle it


It's not really a big deal. It comes apart pretty easy, just pry up the tabs, and seperate the twp halves. You can repair any worn parts if you like, lubricate and reassemble. A tack weld will replace any broken tabs.

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57larry
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PostPosted: Mon, Mar 05 2012, 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, thanks, I'll give it a shot, I got a torch & welder
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PostPosted: Mon, Mar 05 2012, 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks to me like you should be able to still use outside locks with the key, but not the inside with the door handle. I assume that they found the actuator would not overcome the spring. Anxious to see what you use for the bell crank and such. I had my latches out this weekend because they would not lock from the outside. I used the Drake kit to add a lock to drivers door and discovered that they made the leg for the outside olock cylinder in such a manner that it bound up the mechanism. I was able to bend the driver side to work but not the passenger. Fortunatly I had a good original passenger side. Although I don't bad mouth any repro stuff for the most part [just glad to have access to some] but the quality of the repro latch is nowhere near the original. At least I can lock it up now.
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Learpilot
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PostPosted: Mon, Mar 05 2012, 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okiedokie wrote:
Rick, any progress?

I have been flying a lot lately and have just started working. I bought a right rear door latch just to cut it like the drawing and make the mistakes with it before I start cutting on the '40s good door latchs. I have got the electrics working good. I think I will mount the controller behind the left kick panel. I still have not figured out how to have a mechanical back up in case the key FOB fails , or the battery goes dead. One thing I though of was to use a GM type door lock cylinder and hook it to the rod that moves up and down. If I remember the lock cylinder has movement before the lock moves.
Some times my projects take a little longer because I can't work in the garage after work because I am not home. As my Wife says Flying off somewhere.
Rick
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Okiedokie
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PostPosted: Mon, Mar 05 2012, 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick, I am positive that your passenger door outside lock will still function normally. Joe
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PostPosted: Mon, Mar 05 2012, 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Learpilot wrote:
Okiedokie wrote:
Rick, any progress?

I have been flying a lot lately and have just started working. I bought a right rear door latch just to cut it like the drawing and make the mistakes with it before I start cutting on the '40s good door latchs. I have got the electrics working good. I think I will mount the controller behind the left kick panel. I still have not figured out how to have a mechanical back up in case the key FOB fails , or the battery goes dead. One thing I though of was to use a GM type door lock cylinder and hook it to the rod that moves up and down. If I remember the lock cylinder has movement before the lock moves.
Some times my projects take a little longer because I can't work in the garage after work because I am not home. As my Wife says Flying off somewhere.
Rick

I usually use a hood release lever and cable either hidden under the hood or under a fender, and run back thru the door to the latch. Works great!

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Okiedokie
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PostPosted: Tue, Mar 06 2012, 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, looks like I was wrong about the outside lock working. I had the opportunity to look at one of the actuators at a friends today. I don't think that the key lock could overcome the actuator. It did cause me to think, after I left, if the battery loses power do the actuators unlock? Does the controller somehow keep the actuators engaged? Anyone have any experience with these set ups?
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crdnblu
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PostPosted: Tue, Mar 06 2012, 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not too sure that you need to be concerned about the door-lock actuator (solenoid) strength being able to be over-ridden by your key; they typically operate on a "pulse" basis, & are not held in the locked/unlocked position by any current being present.
Hopefully others will chime-in here to confirm, or refute my statement.
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Okiedokie
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PostPosted: Tue, Mar 06 2012, 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

crdnblu, of course you are correct. Once I thoght about it and realized that it could not be powered at all times. I was correct the first time. the door key would still function.
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