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Learpilot Knight Regular

Gender:  Joined: 30 Oct 2006 User's Age: (63) Posts: 387 Location: columbus ga
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Posted: Sun, Feb 12 2012, 7:06 pm Post subject: '40 Ford electric door locks |
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Has anybody put electric door locks on a '40 Ford with stock door latches ?
Thanks in advance !!!
Rick |
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crdnblu Craftsman
Gender:  Joined: 26 Apr 2007 User's Age: (68) Posts: 109 Location: Boise, Idaho
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Learpilot Knight Regular

Gender:  Joined: 30 Oct 2006 User's Age: (63) Posts: 387 Location: columbus ga
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Posted: Mon, Feb 13 2012, 7:47 am Post subject: |
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THANK YOU !!! That is exactly what I am looking for, and I have all the parts !
THANKS AGAIN, Rick |
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Okiedokie Nobleman

Gender:  Joined: 16 Dec 2004 User's Age: (68) Posts: 513 Location: Tulsa Ok
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Posted: Mon, Feb 13 2012, 7:55 pm Post subject: |
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| Wonder if the original locks will still work? Looks like they would. |
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Learpilot Knight Regular

Gender:  Joined: 30 Oct 2006 User's Age: (63) Posts: 387 Location: columbus ga
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Posted: Fri, Feb 17 2012, 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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| Okiedokie wrote: | | Wonder if the original locks will still work? Looks like they would. |
It looks like that the original door locks will not work because they were cut in the first picture. I have not modified my locks yet ,but when I do I will let you know.
Rick |
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Okiedokie Nobleman

Gender:  Joined: 16 Dec 2004 User's Age: (68) Posts: 513 Location: Tulsa Ok
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Posted: Sat, Feb 18 2012, 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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| Yhanks Rick. |
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57larry Knight Regular
Joined: 27 Feb 2008 User's Age: N/A Posts: 315 Location: Indy
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Posted: Mon, Feb 27 2012, 6:52 pm Post subject: |
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| has anybody replaced their springs in a 40 Ford door latch ? should I start a new thread? thanks |
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Okiedokie Nobleman

Gender:  Joined: 16 Dec 2004 User's Age: (68) Posts: 513 Location: Tulsa Ok
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Posted: Mon, Feb 27 2012, 7:50 pm Post subject: |
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| I haven't. |
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enjenjo Site Admin

Gender:  Joined: 21 Jan 2004 User's Age: (65) Posts: 10122 Location: Swanton, Ohio
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Posted: Mon, Feb 27 2012, 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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Yes I have. Don't remember who, but the springs are available. You have to pry up the tabs to get the housing apart, the tabs often break off when doing this, I just hold it togeter with some tack welds. If the guts are worn, and more times than not they are, it may be more effective to buy new latches. _________________ "Walk it off Snack Fairy" |
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57larry Knight Regular
Joined: 27 Feb 2008 User's Age: N/A Posts: 315 Location: Indy
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Posted: Tue, Feb 28 2012, 1:20 pm Post subject: |
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| Drake has the springs, which I have. Not sure if I have the nerve to tackle it |
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Okiedokie Nobleman

Gender:  Joined: 16 Dec 2004 User's Age: (68) Posts: 513 Location: Tulsa Ok
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Posted: Sun, Mar 04 2012, 10:58 pm Post subject: |
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| Rick, any progress? |
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enjenjo Site Admin

Gender:  Joined: 21 Jan 2004 User's Age: (65) Posts: 10122 Location: Swanton, Ohio
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Posted: Mon, Mar 05 2012, 1:51 am Post subject: |
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| 57larry wrote: | | Drake has the springs, which I have. Not sure if I have the nerve to tackle it |
It's not really a big deal. It comes apart pretty easy, just pry up the tabs, and seperate the twp halves. You can repair any worn parts if you like, lubricate and reassemble. A tack weld will replace any broken tabs. _________________ "Walk it off Snack Fairy" |
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57larry Knight Regular
Joined: 27 Feb 2008 User's Age: N/A Posts: 315 Location: Indy
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Posted: Mon, Mar 05 2012, 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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| ok, thanks, I'll give it a shot, I got a torch & welder |
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Okiedokie Nobleman

Gender:  Joined: 16 Dec 2004 User's Age: (68) Posts: 513 Location: Tulsa Ok
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Posted: Mon, Mar 05 2012, 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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| Looks to me like you should be able to still use outside locks with the key, but not the inside with the door handle. I assume that they found the actuator would not overcome the spring. Anxious to see what you use for the bell crank and such. I had my latches out this weekend because they would not lock from the outside. I used the Drake kit to add a lock to drivers door and discovered that they made the leg for the outside olock cylinder in such a manner that it bound up the mechanism. I was able to bend the driver side to work but not the passenger. Fortunatly I had a good original passenger side. Although I don't bad mouth any repro stuff for the most part [just glad to have access to some] but the quality of the repro latch is nowhere near the original. At least I can lock it up now. |
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Learpilot Knight Regular

Gender:  Joined: 30 Oct 2006 User's Age: (63) Posts: 387 Location: columbus ga
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Posted: Mon, Mar 05 2012, 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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| Okiedokie wrote: | | Rick, any progress? |
I have been flying a lot lately and have just started working. I bought a right rear door latch just to cut it like the drawing and make the mistakes with it before I start cutting on the '40s good door latchs. I have got the electrics working good. I think I will mount the controller behind the left kick panel. I still have not figured out how to have a mechanical back up in case the key FOB fails , or the battery goes dead. One thing I though of was to use a GM type door lock cylinder and hook it to the rod that moves up and down. If I remember the lock cylinder has movement before the lock moves.
Some times my projects take a little longer because I can't work in the garage after work because I am not home. As my Wife says Flying off somewhere.
Rick |
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Okiedokie Nobleman

Gender:  Joined: 16 Dec 2004 User's Age: (68) Posts: 513 Location: Tulsa Ok
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Posted: Mon, Mar 05 2012, 8:25 pm Post subject: |
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| Rick, I am positive that your passenger door outside lock will still function normally. Joe |
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Digger Craftsman

Gender:  Joined: 24 Aug 2009 User's Age: N/A Posts: 193 Location: Morrison IL
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Posted: Mon, Mar 05 2012, 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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| Learpilot wrote: | | Okiedokie wrote: | | Rick, any progress? |
I have been flying a lot lately and have just started working. I bought a right rear door latch just to cut it like the drawing and make the mistakes with it before I start cutting on the '40s good door latchs. I have got the electrics working good. I think I will mount the controller behind the left kick panel. I still have not figured out how to have a mechanical back up in case the key FOB fails , or the battery goes dead. One thing I though of was to use a GM type door lock cylinder and hook it to the rod that moves up and down. If I remember the lock cylinder has movement before the lock moves.
Some times my projects take a little longer because I can't work in the garage after work because I am not home. As my Wife says Flying off somewhere.
Rick |
I usually use a hood release lever and cable either hidden under the hood or under a fender, and run back thru the door to the latch. Works great! _________________ Just when you think you are winning the Rat Race, along come faster rats!
Digger |
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Okiedokie Nobleman

Gender:  Joined: 16 Dec 2004 User's Age: (68) Posts: 513 Location: Tulsa Ok
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Posted: Tue, Mar 06 2012, 2:26 pm Post subject: |
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| Well, looks like I was wrong about the outside lock working. I had the opportunity to look at one of the actuators at a friends today. I don't think that the key lock could overcome the actuator. It did cause me to think, after I left, if the battery loses power do the actuators unlock? Does the controller somehow keep the actuators engaged? Anyone have any experience with these set ups? |
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crdnblu Craftsman
Gender:  Joined: 26 Apr 2007 User's Age: (68) Posts: 109 Location: Boise, Idaho
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Posted: Tue, Mar 06 2012, 2:40 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not too sure that you need to be concerned about the door-lock actuator (solenoid) strength being able to be over-ridden by your key; they typically operate on a "pulse" basis, & are not held in the locked/unlocked position by any current being present.
Hopefully others will chime-in here to confirm, or refute my statement. |
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Okiedokie Nobleman

Gender:  Joined: 16 Dec 2004 User's Age: (68) Posts: 513 Location: Tulsa Ok
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Posted: Tue, Mar 06 2012, 4:00 pm Post subject: |
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| crdnblu, of course you are correct. Once I thoght about it and realized that it could not be powered at all times. I was correct the first time. the door key would still function. |
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