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Need Rust Prevention Ideas
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50 F1
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PostPosted: Sun, Nov 22 2015, 5:56 am    Post subject: Need Rust Prevention Ideas Reply with quote

I just bought a 1998 Chevy Pick Up 2500 4x4. It spent its winters either in the garage here in Michigan or the previous owners took it to Arizona for the winter. It hasn't seen much salt and the underneath of the truck is real nice. I will eventually be using it as a winter truck here in Michigan.

What would be a good thing to spray or brush on the under body, frame, fuel lines brake lines to help save it?

I have heard regular motor oil, transmission fluid. I even seen a guy on You tube that melts toilet bowl wax rings with boiled linseed oil and brushes the mixture on.

Any Ideas other than not driving it in the winter. I really hate to but my other winter truck is slowly disappearing from the bottom up.
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tom36
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PostPosted: Sun, Nov 22 2015, 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Used motor oil seemed to work well in the past,but lately I have been using Fluid Film. Supposedly made from lanolin? Anyhow that's what I have used the past2 years. Seems to do the job. Tom...
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idrivejunk
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PostPosted: Sun, Nov 22 2015, 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd prefer good paint with a catalyst. It is permanent and those other solutions are not. Cover it with rubberized undercoat so road debris hits that instead of the paint.

Those trucks have hydroformed frames with many contours. I highly recommend coating the insides of those boxed crossmember and rail areas using a wand such as featured in the 3M RustFighter system or the Eastwood internal frame coating which uses a hose rather than wand. Its pretty much a mix of wax and oil that fogs and hangs in the air to coat the entire cavity.

Whatever you use, the keyword is plenty!
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Crosley
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PostPosted: Sun, Nov 22 2015, 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

move to florida
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kb426
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PostPosted: Sun, Nov 22 2015, 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^^^
Laughing

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phat46
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PostPosted: Sun, Nov 22 2015, 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Around here, the Port Huron area, people take their trucks over to Sarnia Ont. to a hot oil place and get them sprayed. Never done it myself but I know people who have and it seems to work. Seems like it's a Canadian thing.
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Harry
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PostPosted: Sun, Nov 22 2015, 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know people in Hamilton, Ontario and they get the car sprayed with oil every year. I don't know the cost. Can't be too much.
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Rochie
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PostPosted: Sun, Nov 22 2015, 7:37 pm    Post subject: Under coating with used oil Reply with quote

Yep, up here they are using a brine made from beet juice and rock salt. It's REALLY corrosive and spreads rust quickly because it seeps into every nook and cranie. We've been oiling for decades. I used to do it when I was an apprentice. Used diesel oil is best and cheap if you have a diesel.

The cost from a commercial joint is right around $100 Can…thats $60 bucks to you guys, if they have to drill and cap holes to access inside panels, i.e., rocker panels
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UGLY OLDS
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PostPosted: Sun, Nov 22 2015, 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't really offer any suggestions ... ( See my post on my "fender fiasco" ..)
Things by my house rust BAD ..I just had to make "L" bracket clips to weld to the steel posts on my front
porch railing.. Rolling Eyes
I then used concrete anchors to secure the clips to the concrete porch.. It seems that the posts rusted off at the base where they go into the concrete .. Shocked

My '89 GMC broke in half right behind the cab due to frame rust ....( 110K miles )
It had multiple sets of brake & fuel lines replaced during its "stay" here ...

All the steel hardware on my Grand Marquis exhaust rusted off .. The factory stainless mufflers & pipes were fine .. All the bolts & clamps rusted away .... Evil or Very Mad
I just replaced both front fenders on that car due to rust & it was "rust-proofed" quite well when new .....

When you find something that works , PLEASE let us know ....

Bob ...



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58 Yeoman
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PostPosted: Sun, Nov 22 2015, 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I watched the Peoria news last week, where Peoria County is getting their trucks ready for the winter haul. Adding calcium chloride had been used in the past, and maybe beet juice, I don't remember, but now they are adding tree sap to the salt, as it's cheaper.

Where do they get all this tree sap? They didn't say what trees they use, and didn't say where they get it. When we were kids, we tapped the maple trees, and maybe ended up with a gallon of sap. We never made syrup, we just drank the sap like water.

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UGLY OLDS
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PostPosted: Mon, Nov 23 2015, 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil .. I'm pretty sure that you can get it here , but a bulk quanity may need to be special ordered ..... Question

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9&zenid=g v477N4SXT1nw,TREWeCD2

Bob.... Wink

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butch27
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PostPosted: Mon, Nov 23 2015, 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

O.K. Going out on a limb here but in Canada they sell electrical unit that has 4 or 6 sacrifical diodes that mount to the frame. Sounds like snake oil BUT I used it on a '78 Ford van and it worked. Go figure I'm in Michigan.
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phat46
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PostPosted: Mon, Nov 23 2015, 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

butch27 wrote:
O.K. Going out on a limb here but in Canada they sell electrical unit that has 4 or 6 sacrifical diodes that mount to the frame. Sounds like snake oil BUT I used it on a '78 Ford van and it worked. Go figure I'm in Michigan.


You can get that in the States too. I checked into it when I bought my '02 Dodge, I didn't get it, wish I had, but they set me e mailed for years. Cannot remember the name of the company though.
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parklane
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PostPosted: Mon, Nov 23 2015, 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

butch27 wrote:
O.K. Going out on a limb here but in Canada they sell electrical unit that has 4 or 6 sacrifical diodes that mount to the frame. Sounds like snake oil BUT I used it on a '78 Ford van and it worked. Go figure I'm in Michigan.


save yourself some money, and walk away from that (snake oil)

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Beck
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PostPosted: Tue, Nov 24 2015, 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A friend of mine had a late 70's early 80's Blazer. Every fall he would spray it with ATF using a garden sprayer. He sprayed everything he could get the wand nozzle into. I expect he added a few access holes also. It probably doubled the life of the body, but in time it too rusted away. He would park it OUT of the driveway for at least a week after treatment. Dust likes to stick to the oily surfaces.

I would think a thicker fluid, heated if needed for application, would be more effective than something as thin as ATF. I like the wax ring melted in oil idea above. If you can heat it to spray it, the summer sun will heat it to melt it away. Access to the inner rocker areas is needed. Those are the first areas to go. If you add access holes use rubber plugs to reseal the area.

idrivejunk has the answer for a new vehicle. GOOD paint. Getting a used vehicle clean enough to get a strong paint bond may be difficult. Or take it one step further and use bed liner.
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UGLY OLDS
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PostPosted: Tue, Nov 24 2015, 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My brother had one of those electronic rust preventative gizmos on his bought new '89 T-Bird.. Doors, fenders & quarters rotted through before the payment book ended.. Sad

I worked for a company that completed the up-fit on Bell System trucks & prepared them for service .. We rust-proofed these vehicles with a wax/cosmoline type of material that stuck to everything & never dried .. Rather than drilling holes, we removed panels to assure proper coverage inside doors /quarters/etc .. Three years later..Rotted through panels ..

When we scrapped my '89 GMC pick-up with 110K miles, I had guys fighting over the rust-free front clip..( I flushed all the "hidden" areas with water every time it was washed ). The sad part was bolts we had to torch off because the heads had rusted into little round "nubs" , OR.. The exhaust manifold that I had to replace because the part of the manifold that one of the three exhaust pipe studs threads into rotted off ....( The cast iron ...NOT the stud ..) ..

The photo below shows what was left of part of the frame rail .... Evil or Very Mad

I really don't thing that there is a resolution for vehicles in our part of the country... Sad

Bob.. Wink



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kb426
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PostPosted: Tue, Nov 24 2015, 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW!!!!
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tom36
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PostPosted: Tue, Nov 24 2015, 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As long as we are on this subject, I have a couple more stories for you. Years ago when Zeibart was all the rage, I worked part time in a body shop. The discussion on rust and rust proofing came up. There was a 66 chevy hood that the back side was sort of rusty and we coated 1/3 with new motor oil, 1/3 with used motor oil and 1/3 with I think was Quaker state rustproofing- looked like beeswax. The hood was thrown out back and forgotten about- went thru summer, fall, winter and in the spring when they were cleaning up all the old sheet metal, the hood was rediscovered. The new motor oil side was washed off and rust was showing. The Quaker state piece had washed away and was rusting. The used motor oil piece looked like the rust had been converted to black iron.
Also years ago when I was in the AF, a Tsgt I knew used to change his own oil and He took the used oil and put in a squirt oil gun and put the nozzle between the glass and weatherstrip on the doors and squirted oil in there. Squirted oil in the front fenders and poured the rest in the 1/4 panels via the trunk. The car was coated with sticky dust on the bottom, but not a speck of rust... Tom...
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Arnold
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PostPosted: Tue, Nov 24 2015, 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have found that people who go on about their great rustproofing..rust free...this that..at the end of their story..they do not drive in winter,salt,keep their cars in dry heated(always about the same temperature garages)OR they did and they dealt with the rust as best they could and don't do it anymore.
Paint as idj says..then something that will creep.
There are just too many components and now made crappy..that cannot be rustproofed,protected. Wheel bearings,rotors,calipers,hubs,axle shafts,stainless exhausts over about 12 years. Brake pads that after enough time seem to just rot right off the shoes..not uncommon.
I had 2 identical vehicles..1 rustproofed regularly..it rotted right at the frame dog leg where they drilled and plugged it.. Laughing
The other one rusted and the same spot Laughing

A car I am driving right now was sometimes rustproofed twice a year..I hate to admit it Embarassed Recently I found ROT in one of the back lower quarters..it had gotten UNDER the paint was going at it from the OUTSIDE Crying or Very sad You would never know it unless you felt it with your hand..can't see it right now unless you get under it and feel it.
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enjenjo
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PostPosted: Tue, Nov 24 2015, 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two stories.

One, a body shop owner I know, uses used motor oil on his pickup. He has done this on his last four pickups, keeps them about 10 years, and sells them. He does it twice a year, fall and spring. It drips for a few days, but soon stops, and they always look good.

The other one was an old farmer that sprayed his 49 Chevy pickup with Kerosene every few months. He drove that pickup over 50 years, and it still looked like new

I like Tectyl undercoating, on my GMC I used that when I built it, as I assembled it, and it held up for nearly 20 years.

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