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carburetor pad angle
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vso737
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PostPosted: Sat, Apr 28 2012, 10:40 pm    Post subject: carburetor pad angle Reply with quote

Hi,

My SBC has a 2 degree backward slant that I have to live with.

I figure my carb. pad is at a 7/32" slant.

Is there a base plate available for a Q-Jet carburetor to take up this tilt and make it LEVEL ??

Or am I making a BIG DEAL over nothing??

Any suggestions highly appreciated, thanks in advance.

LG,
Mike

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wayne petty
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PostPosted: Sat, Apr 28 2012, 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

seems that wedge plates are available for the carb mounting of holley flange carbs..

can you modify the open center version for your quadrajet???

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Air-Fuel-Delivery/Part-Ty pe/Carburetor-Wedge-Plates/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

or modify one of the 4 hole versions???

are you having fuel control issues where the float levels might be effecting air fuel ratio during driving on the main circuits???

probably won't effect the idle or idle transition circuits..

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Last edited by wayne petty on Sat, Apr 28 2012, 11:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sat, Apr 28 2012, 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For a 2 degree angle, I think your making a big deal over nothing.

What do you do to compensate for the angle of the carb when your driving up a 15 degree grade?

If it is that much of a big deal to you why not have the base plate in the intake milled to be flat when installe don the engine.

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vso737
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 29 2012, 12:01 am    Post subject: carburetor pad angle Reply with quote

Thanks Wayne,

NO.......I just dropped the motor in yesterday and will NOT be able to get the motor LEVEL due to obstructions.

I have a 3 degree backward tilt at the carb. pad but with the 1 degree the garage floor has, I figure a good 2 degrees.

I'm NOT going to worry about it UNLESS it becomes an issue when I get this monster on the road. I guess I can have a base plate milled if need be.
I was just wondering they made them.................

I figured you would be "the man".............

Thanks a bunch,
Mike


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wayne petty
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 29 2012, 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

obstructions...

hmm... say.. how do you fill a transmission with one of those flexible transmission dip sticks..???? its not like my former 70 rover 3500s where it had to be on a lift and running while you pump it up with a J tube into the clear plastic fill device..

looks like the dip stick might also need to clear the #8 header tube..

as Big Sexy said.. thats really not as much angle as you would think...

take off and the fuel level in the carb rises in the rear... step on the brake it goes down in the front..

that little bit of an angle really should not make a huge difference...

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vso737
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 29 2012, 12:36 am    Post subject: carburetor pad angle Reply with quote

I agree, the current motor level does NOT seem like such a big deal.

I'm in the process of making the motor mounts and also the transmission mount. The current setting is pretty accurate though.

I also have to re-do the front wishbones.....pretty easy fix.

As far as the filling of the tranny. There is a special funnel, which I don't have, that is used to accomplish the task.

I hand placed the "ram horn" exhaust manifolds today to see if they fit. I was so happy that they do.........very tight, but they do.
I don't think the trans filler will be a problem and it can be adapted to just about anywhere, including the firewall.

I will post a picture of the way I had it yesterday when I dropped the motor in.



Thanks again,
Mike

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wayne petty
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 29 2012, 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i know you have checked it..

but is there clearance when the engine is leveled off .. for the drag link and the tie rod to clear the crank pulley when the suspension is compressed???

just a thought from looking at the 2 pictures..

again.. i know you checked it..

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vso737
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 29 2012, 1:25 am    Post subject: carburetor pad angle Reply with quote

I have NOT made the MM yet. Right now there is the motor weight and I have a 3/4" piece of wood for clearance with the rack-n-pinion and the drag link but when I make and install the motor mounts, I will make sure there's plenty of clearance. I would have to let all of the weight go on the motor mounts to really see what I'm dealing with.

What would you say is a good amount of clearance between the rack and engine damper??

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vso737
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 29 2012, 1:33 am    Post subject: Re: carburetor pad angle Reply with quote

Forget about the picture with the motor way up in the air.
That is a BEFORE picture. I had to cut off the motor mounts and will have them reinstall approx. 4 inches lower on the frame to get the motor near level.
The motor will NEVER be level due to the obstructions mentioned.

I just furnished the picture to let you know what I had to contend with yesterday when I first installed the motor.

The motor will pretty much have the same pitch as the front of the frame which is "kicked up" about 3 degrees.

The motor will be able to be lifted up on the frame mount once I make it if I feel that the damper is too close to the drag link. Of course this will increase the motor pitch upwards which I'm trying to avoid.

Will know more once I fabricate the frame mounts.

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wayne petty
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 29 2012, 1:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

perhaps some of the other RRT members will know what the front weight might be on a finished car like you are building.. so you can add some plywood and sand bags or what ever across the front of the frame and the back of the frame to calculate the ride height..

you will still need to see where the bump stops are for when you bottom out the suspension.. with the steering straight and with the wheels turned in either direction..

sorry to add so much to the plate.. i just recall an engine swap that was done on a friends car.. when it bottomed out.. the damper hit the top of the axle.. thats not nearly as bad as it hitting the steering linkage.. as that will bend and leave you stranded if it touches and bends in an extreme case..

if you can figure out how much the suspension will compress to the bump stops.. you could slice and glue together several creatively sliced pvc water pipe and duct tape it to the top of the drag link and tie rod.. simulating the angles and heights of the links when the suspension is in full compression ..

please build this device with stacks at the ends and a single layer of PVC pipe in the middle to simulate the max height.. this way when raising and lowering the engine.. if the damper or pulley hit the middle of the bridge of your height gauge.. the plastic will bend and deflect.. not transfer it to the steel links..

its probably not an issue.. it just LOOKS close..

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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 29 2012, 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got kinda lost in your description, the pic as shown - that isn't going to be the finished product is it? Can you post a better picture?
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 29 2012, 11:02 am    Post subject: carburetor pad angle Reply with quote

oj wrote:
I got kinda lost in your description, the pic as shown - that isn't going to be the finished product is it? Can you post a better picture?





My DILEMMA now is the clearance between the DAMPER and STEERING DRAG LINK...................

Hope this picture helps............

Thanks,
Mike[/img]

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PostPosted: Mon, Apr 30 2012, 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taller rear tires, and smaller front tires will level that carb mounting pad.

Just kidding!

But, there is another effect of SBC engine tilt to be considered.

A friend had an oil consumption problem with the SBC in her '32 coupe. .....The rear-ward tilt of the engine (to clear obstructions) caused the rearmost (exhaust) valve guides to be submerged in oil. ....The "umbrella" style valve guide seals acted as mini oil pumps, forcing oil down the guides. .....A change to positive-style valve guide seals solved the consumption/smoking problem.

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PostPosted: Mon, Apr 30 2012, 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Much better pic. Looks good really. Is that a unisteer type setup? If it is under the balancer you can move it rearward so it passes behind the balancer. I think that is typical. There is just enough room to mount the box right in front of where the turndown would be for blockhuggers and the crossarm passes under the front of the oil pan. It attaches at an angle not parallel to the tyerod.
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PostPosted: Tue, May 01 2012, 12:47 am    Post subject: carburetor pad angle Reply with quote

oj wrote:
Much better pic. Looks good really. Is that a unisteer type setup? If it is under the balancer you can move it rearward so it passes behind the balancer. I think that is typical. There is just enough room to mount the box right in front of where the turndown would be for blockhuggers and the crossarm passes under the front of the oil pan. It attaches at an angle not parallel to the tyerod.


THAT is an OLD picture now. I just made the new MM and took care of the clearance BUT now the transmission is way TOO low, approx. 3 inches of the ground.
I have decided to do something with the CENTER CROSS MEMBER so I can raise the transmission.
BOY do I have a lot of work cut out for myself................

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PostPosted: Fri, May 04 2012, 8:12 pm    Post subject: carburetor pad angle Reply with quote

FYI- The problem I had can NOT be fixed without modifying the center cross member. I was able to get the carb pad to the 1 degree mark which took care of the clearance problem under the crank pulley (now at 5") as well as the distance between the trans pan and ground.

Thanks for all the input,
Mike
[img]

[/img]

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enjenjo
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PostPosted: Fri, May 04 2012, 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That should be fine. I had to use an 11 degree spacer on one engine, it's been on the road for 20 years with no problem.
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PostPosted: Fri, May 04 2012, 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you stomp on the brakes for a 1G stop, the fuel in the bowl sloshes to maybe 45 degrees to the front of the fuel bowl.

When you tramp it in first gear, it probably goes to something like that to the rear of the fuel bowl.

And guess what, your carb works just fine going up and down some incredibly steep grades too, just ask the off road guys.

But OH ! if the carb is not dead level when the thing is parked and just idling it absolutely must be fixed..... I don't think so.
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PostPosted: Sat, May 05 2012, 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remember using short pieces of tubing stuck into the jets of the rear carb bowls in my race car .. It assured that there was fuel available to the jets when the fuel "sloshed" to the rear of the float bowls
when the car launched Idea

I also used to use a piece of fuel line between the bowl vents to keep the fuel from going out the vents at launch & to avoid "bleeding" from the vents at speed ... Rolling Eyes

Both of these were common when running Holley carbs ...But I was running three of them ... Confused Confused

Looked hokey ...Worked GREAT .... Cool

Ah ....The "Good old days" ..... Duh


MIKE ...Can you please post a photo of how you corrected your front motor mounts to lower the front of the engine ??

Bob ..... Wink

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PostPosted: Sat, May 05 2012, 9:37 am    Post subject: carburetor pad angle Reply with quote

Hi Bob,
I had to saw off the front of the frame mount, the hole, and made a hanger. Of course it turned out to be too deep so instead of making another one, I made a 2" riser in case I want to lower it at a later date.
I still have to weld the hanger to the top of the existing frame mount and the riser to the hanger.
Hope the pictures make sense...................

LG,
Mike
[img]

[/img]

[img][/img]

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