Crab Claw Headers, Chevys 49-54, Other projects Cars
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#1: Crab Claw Headers, Chevys 49-54, Other projects Cars Author: roosterLocation: ST LOUIS,MO. PostPosted: Thu, Nov 03 2005, 11:44 pm
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I have been working on this for a while and I have not completed the install but I see no reason why it won’t work. I have installed the manifolds to check for clearance on a stock steering setup on a 49 Chevy 2/d styleline my son has. They may work on other project as well! If your looking for a stock exhaust to dump in a different location for clearance you might want to take a look at this. #10168495 LH, # 10168496 RH.



The manifolds used are from a 93 Buick station wagon with a LT1 engine, and all
Chevy’s with LT1 engines . They should be good performers. They clear the steering box
cleanly on a 49 chevy and drop down just in front of the oil filter. No trimming of the
firewall is necessary on the drivers side.. The exhaust pipe seen on the drivers side is right
off the Buick station wagon ASIS with the exception of the shilding removed and a hole
drilled !



[With the wheels turned full left the draglink just touches the pipe. A hole will have to be
drilled into the manifold for them to be attached the SBC heads, and it will be a tight fit
(see picture).



There’s more!
Now you can have a matching manifold for the passenger side; some trimming of the
firewall brace is required. (See picture}On the passenger side you will have to cap off
where the air fitting came out at the rear of the manifold (see picture) and drill an
additional hole in the manifold to bolt up to the head.{ See picture)



To clear the starter, a bolt will have to be used instead of a stud on 1 of the three studs
that hold the exhaust pipe to the header dump. Both manifolds need to be pluged where
the air lines connect, still looking for the right plug.
We haven’t got the car together yet to try them out, but it looks like they should work.
They kind of looked odd at first, now we think their cock! We named them “Crab
Claws”!






#2: Re: Crab Claw Headers”! Chevys 49-54, Other projects Cars Author: phat46Location: In da Thumb of Michigan PostPosted: Fri, Nov 04 2005, 8:32 am
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[quote="rooster"]I have been working on this for a while and I have not completed the install but I see no reason why it won’t work. I have installed the manifolds to check for clearance on a stock steering setup on a 49 Chevy 2/d styleline my son has. They may work on other project as well! If your looking for a stock exhaust to dump in a different location for clearance you might want to take a look at this. #10168495 LH, # 10168496 RH.


those look slick, I bet they will help a lot of people. They look like factory block huggers, only better!

#3:  Author: GPsterLocation: Marietta, Ohio PostPosted: Fri, Nov 04 2005, 10:13 am
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That's a great piece of information and very nicely presented. GPster

#4: Re: Crab Claw Headers”! Chevys 49-54, Other projects Cars Author: SeanLocation: Fulton, Missouri PostPosted: Fri, Nov 04 2005, 6:18 pm
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Looks like they 'oughta flow pretty good. I'll bet they flow better than the Block-Huggers on my F100...

#5:  Author: soldermonkeyLocation: Austin Texas PostPosted: Sat, Nov 05 2005, 10:19 pm
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That is very good and well presented.
The plug access is really good.
Does any one know how these work in a 46 - 48 Ford?


dave

#6: I am using these, and for a plug I found .... Author: 48builder PostPosted: Sun, Nov 06 2005, 4:56 pm
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a stainless hex head bolt to use. I think it is 3/4-13 thread. I could only get one that is too long, but I'll just cut it and then polish the head.

You say you removed the heat shields. Are you concerned at all about too much heat without them? I was going to polish mine and leave them on, but I think I would rather get them coated with that special ceramic coating.

#7: Re: I am using these, and for a plug I found .... Author: roosterLocation: ST LOUIS,MO. PostPosted: Sun, Nov 06 2005, 6:28 pm
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48builder wrote:
a stainless hex head bolt to use. I think it is 3/4-13 thread. I could only get one that is too long, but I'll just cut it and then polish the head.

You say you removed the heat shields. Are you concerned at all about too much heat without them? I was going to polish mine and leave them on, but I think I would rather get them coated with that special ceramic coating.


I used a stainless hex bolt only because thats what we had laying around in garage. From the factory the manifolds are attached using a 1/2" round spacer , and a regular bolt.

As for the heat I wouldent expect it to be any different from other manifolds. The coating sounds nice! Son is not using fuel injection so he will be pluging all the holes. He's working on that now!

#8:  Author: roosterLocation: ST LOUIS,MO. PostPosted: Thu, Nov 17 2005, 11:24 pm
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Finished up the face lift of the crabs today. The air bosses were cut off and a 3/8” steel pipe plug inserted in the hole then welded up with nickel rod then ground down. Also removed the small bosses for the drive rivets that secured the shielding, then removed the numbers and lettering with the ecption of “GM”. Now all we need is a plug where the Oxygen sensor was on passenger side.






#9:  Author: roosterLocation: ST LOUIS,MO. PostPosted: Tue, Mar 06 2007, 8:40 pm
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This will be my TECH post , if older post are ok! Very Happy

#10:  Author: RottenRodneyLocation: Gopher Grove, CA PostPosted: Wed, Mar 07 2007, 5:37 am
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That looks like THE ticket for steerin' around a steerin' box like we used to do with the 265 manifolds. Those ol' 265 pieces are gittin' scarce now, and the ports always needed to be enlarged to be used on anything other than a 265, then of course; they're still restrictive.

Thanks for that... It's gunna come in handy. RR



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