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Header gasket tech

 
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bowtietillidie
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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 10 2007, 1:19 am    Post subject: Header gasket tech Reply with quote

I used this yrs ago to keep header and collector gaskets from burning out and because of the price of parts I have started to use it again. I made a pan out of sheet metal 2 inches deep by 6 inches wide by 24 inches long.
after you get your pan made and it is water tight . take 8oz of any motor oil and 8 0z of Anti seize compound mix together pour into your new pan .
lay the header and collector gaskets in the pan lay a weight on the gaskets
so they are submerged. Leave in the compound at least 24 hrs. take them out and wipe off excess mixture, install run engine till it reaches operating temp. Shut engine down retighten. I have run gaskets treated like this over
two yrs and never had a failure or leak if the flanges were straight

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rooster
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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 10 2007, 9:34 am    Post subject: Re: Not so tech Reply with quote

bowtietillidie wrote:
I used this yrs ago to keep header and collector gaskets from burning out and because of the price of parts I have started to use it again. I made a pan out of sheet metal 2 inches deep by 6 inches wide by 24 inches long.
after you get your pan made and it is water tight . take 8oz of any motor oil and 8 0z of Anti seize compound mix together pour into your new pan .
lay the header and collector gaskets in the pan lay a weight on the gaskets
so they are submerged. Leave in the compound at least 24 hrs. take them out and wipe off excess mixture, install run engine till it reaches operating temp. Shut engine down retighten. I have run gaskets treated like this over
two yrs and never had a failure or leak if the flanges were straight


What is anti-seize compound mixture? If it saves us from doing extra work or spending extra cash IT'S TECH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very Happy

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bowtietillidie
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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 10 2007, 10:53 pm    Post subject: what is anti Seize compound Reply with quote

This is why I don't post much I always worry if every one understands me. I
think I have a speech impediment in my fingers.(can't type) Anyways here is the information on Anti Seize compound. The stuff I use is made by Fel-pro.
part no#51007 comes in a 1lb can. This stuff is messy , there is brush fastened to the lid . Look on the back of the can there is a large list of
use's it is real good on new spark plugs going into Aluminum heads.
The working temp is -95f to +1800f . I just remembered it is also called Never seize, but I feel the Fel-Pro anti seize does a much better job
because it works in and is designed for adverse temp conditions .
If you got more questions I'll try to give more answers.

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Crosley
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PostPosted: Sat, Mar 10 2007, 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

never heard of it. very interesting.

Cool

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enjenjo
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PostPosted: Sun, Mar 11 2007, 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use it all the time, there are several brands, I use Bostich.

Years ago it was made of lead powder mixed with oil. They have pretty much outlawed that, so the modern stuff is made from aluminum, or copper powder mixed with oil. It should be used wherever dissimilar metals are threaded into one another, or on any Stainless Steel fasteners. I know it's not a problem in AZ with your" dry heat" but on steel bolts, it keeps the nut from rusting to the bolt threads.

Champion also has a glycol based graphite never seize that is recommended for spark plugs into aluminum.

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Normspeed
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PostPosted: Sun, Mar 11 2007, 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next time I need to replace more burned out exhaust gaskets, I'm gonna give this a try. At 2500 miles I just got done re doing my 2 flange gaskets. This time I gave 'em a little red form-a gasket. Smells great when warmed up.
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bowtietillidie
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PostPosted: Sun, Mar 11 2007, 3:39 am    Post subject: Flange gaskets Reply with quote

Something to think about . If you got only 2500 miles on your last set of flange gaskets . It may well be to your advantage to do some checking for warping. If you have acess to a machinists straight check the exhaust
manifold flanges They are probably close to being Straight. If I can slip a piece of news paper between the straight and The flange. I set it up in my bridgeport mill and mill it flat. The exhaust pipe flange is most likely where your problem lyes . I take a 4 1/2" grinder with a new wheel . set the exhaust pipe up in a vice Level it front to back and side to side. Take the 4 1/2 grinder place new wheel flat on the pipe flange . Lightly grind the flange a couple of seconds will do . Look at the flange this will tell you if the exhaust pipe flange is warped. Grind it flat using the straight as a guide . Then use your Anti Seize on the gaskets

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Normspeed
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PostPosted: Sun, Mar 11 2007, 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The main reason the gaskets went south is the shop that put the long block together put in one oversized valve guide and when their guy disassembled the top end with the motor in the car to fix that, he re-used all the gaskets. Including the head gasket. Darn it, right up to then I thought they were OK guys... Burn Out
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Ed ke6bnl
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PostPosted: Sun, Mar 11 2007, 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

we have large air cond. units we work on at work and when remove a large 2in plus shaft from a series of fans on the shaft we coat the entire shaft with the antiseize and when we go to do the job again several years later and it is exposed to the weather the fan squirrel cages slide off easily. ED ke6bnl
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PostPosted: Sun, Mar 11 2007, 12:26 pm    Post subject: Not so Tech Reply with quote

This is just one brand.It comes in all sizes & "colors".... I have had a pint can on the bench for years & use it constantly....Never goes bad..Like Frank says..A MUST when assembling dis-simular metals if you ever want to take them apart..Also used as a lubricant when assembling brakes -the threads on self adjuster screws---caliper slides--etc......( The spark plug in an aluminum head is the best example) ..But be advised, it will stick to anything...When you get it our your fingers, you WILL be scrubbing for awhile...
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jaybee
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PostPosted: Sun, Mar 11 2007, 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Love that anti seize, I use it all the time. First learned of it when I worked at a place that used it on lug bolts for their Bobcat to keep them from galling. Generally I use copper-based on threads into aluminum, copper or aluminum-based on anything else, or loctite even if I don't foresee a loosening problem just to prevent corrosion in the threads.
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PostPosted: Sun, Mar 11 2007, 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

enjenjo wrote:
I use it all the time, there are several brands, I use Bostich.

Years ago it was made of lead powder mixed with oil. They have pretty much outlawed that, so the modern stuff is made from aluminum, or copper powder mixed with oil. It should be used wherever dissimilar metals are threaded into one another, or on any Stainless Steel fasteners. I know it's not a problem in AZ with your" dry heat" but on steel bolts, it keeps the nut from rusting to the bolt threads.

Champion also has a glycol based graphite never seize that is recommended for spark plugs into aluminum.


I use anti-seize on many things, always on aluminum stuff. Or some type of lubricant on threads of aluminum tranny cases.



i guess a better - more clear statement would have been:

" I have never heard of anti-seize used in this manner"


Exclamation

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